Category: Making

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Project of the Month: Quilted Potholder

You will need:Materials:
X1 Piece of fabric 60cm x 20cm
X1 Piece of batting (If it’s a think batting then double up)
X1 150cm piece of bias binding
Tools and Equipment:
Matching Thread to your bias binding, Pins, Needle, Fabric Scissors,
Ruler, Pen / Tailors Chalk, optional embroidery thread for hand quilting.
Iron and Ironing board, Sewing Machine,
Let’s get Making!

Cut your fabric into x2 20cm Squares, then with you remaining fabric cut diagonally so you have a triangle. Then do the exact same with you batting.

Working with your triangles sandwich together your fabric and batting. One triangle right side of fabric facing down, piece of batting triangle of fabric right side of fabric facing up, pin in place. Grab your bias binding, press in half with an iron and then fold over the raw edges – the long diagonal edge. Stitch on the sewing machine. – Or for a neater version check out our instagram stories for more detailed images!

Do the same sandwich pattern again with your square – Right side of fabric facing down, batting, right side of fabric facing up. Pin in place. You now have the option of quilting the layers together, either by hand of machine – if your wadding is quite thick perhaps go for hand quilting, a simple running stitch in a spiral would be plenty. Or criss cross squares on the sewing machine.

Now place your triangle on top of your square and pin in place. Next fold your bias binding around the raw edge of the square also catching in the edges of the triangle and stitch all together.

You should have a bit of bis binding leftover to make an optional hoop to stitch onto one of the corners for hanging your pot holder and Volia!

There you have it! Please let us know how you got on with this project and if you share on social media tag us in with #bunyippotm so we can see them!

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Project of the Month: How to Make a Ribbon Rosette Brooch!

You can obviously adapt this project depending on the width of your ribbon and your desired brooch size, for this project our ribbon is 16mm wide and 1m in length.

Materials:
1m of ribbon – we’ve used tarten to get ready for Burn’s night!
Brooch back
Small – mediem size button
Tools and Equipment:
Thread,
Pins,
Needle
Pair of sharp scissors

1. Have one end of your ribbon in the you hand and be working with the long length. Curve your ribbon in the way shown in the photo, try to have the curve quite pointy as it helps to keep it in shape. Then have your long length meet in the middle but turn it slightly so that it pokes out at a slightly different angle to the first point. This way when you make another point it won’t just keep coming back to the same point. Think of it as your point is 12 on a clock and the two ends are at 4 and 8. It’s quite difficult to explain so please see the photos for this to make more sense =P

2. Keep going round making more ‘points’ till you have a nice full circle – we made 5 but you could keep going and make them longer and have even 10 to make a much larger rosette!

3. Now work round again but making the points much smaller so that they make a mini circle in the bigger circle. It can be quite tricky keeping all of the ribbon in neatly and together at this stage so you could pop a pin in to keep the first circle in the place.

4. When you’re happy with the number of points pop a pin in the keep it all in place and grab your needle and thread. Do several stitches up and down in the middle of the rosette going through ALL of the layers. This should be enough to keep all of the ribbon in the place but you can add a few more stitches to the underneath layers being careful not to catch down any of the loops.


5. Next trim off your excess ribbon and stitch on your button to hide the end of the ribbon. (You can keep using the same piece of thread, you don’t need to knot and cut it off till the end!

6. Now stitch through to the back of the brooch and sew on your brooch back. Several stitches till it’s nice and secure, Knot the thread, trim off the excess and ta-da!

Please let us know how you got on with this project and if you share on social media tag us in with #bunyippotm so we can see them!

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Project of the month: How to make a Pin Cushion

You will need:
Materials:
x2 Different fabrics 15cm x 15cm
x1 Button between 15mm
2m Embroidery thread
Toy Stuffing
Tools and Equipment:
Sewing Machine,
Thread,
Pins,
Needle,
Fabric Scissors,
Pinking Shears
Pen / Tailors Chalk,
Iron and Ironing board,
a bowl / something with a curve to
draw round, Let’s get making!

1. Grab both of your fabrics and draw around your bowl – this can be any size just bare in mind that your finished pin cushion being full of toy stuffing by the end will be padded therefore raised so it will appear slightly smaller by the end.

2. Cut out your fabrics and place them right sides together and stitch around the edge with a 1cm seam allowence, leaving a gao of roughly 5cm for turning.

3. Use your pinking shears to trim the edges, press with an iron and then turn – use a large knitting needle or even a pen with the lid on help turn the edges and then press with an iron again.

4. Now stuff your pouch with toy stuffing, using small amounts at a time helps to get an overall good level of even ness, when full use slip stitch to finish off.

5. Next grab your embroidery thread, thread onto a needle and tie a good knot at the end. Find your centre point of your cushion and stitch down, and bring thread through – don’t worry about the end thread and the knot it will soon be hidden! Bring your thread around the edge of your cushion and then stitch down all the way through again. And again 6 or 8 times – see photo for example, try to keep each section even it’s sometimes easier to neaten up when they’re all done as then you can compare them to each other.

6. With the last bit of your embroidery thread stitch up. Now stitch on your button 2 – 3 times up and down through the whole cushion should be plenty. Knot and tuck the thread in and snip – see our stories on instagram saved in the highlight section if you need and extra guide.

And there you have it! Please let us know how you got on with this project and if you share on social media tag us in with #bunyippotm so we can see them!

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Project of the Month: How to make a Cutlery Pouch


You will need:
Materials:
x2 Different fabrics 14cm x 62cm
x1 Button between 15 – 20mm
Tools and Equipment:
Sewing Machine,
Thread,
Pins,
Needle,
Fabric Scissors,
Ruler,
Pen / Tailors Chalk,
Iron and Ironing board,
Pinking Shears,
a mug / something with a curve to draw round

You’re find this project very similar to last months Pencil Roll so I’ve you’ve made that one then this should be a breeze, Let’s get Making!

1. Decide which fabric will be your inner and which your outer. For this cutlery pouch the yellow raindrops is the inner and light denim with beetles and bugs the outer – perfect for a picnic right? Cut out of both fabrics one piece 14cm x 37cm, and one piece 14cm x 25cm. To the longer piece curve the edges like in the photo.

2. To make the pouch take the two smaller pieces of fabric, right sides together and stitch along the top – shorter edge of the fabric (1cm seam allowance for this project) Open out and press and then fold so that wrong sides are facing and press the seam down.

3. Next you need to make a little sandwich. Take your inner large piece of fabric right side up. Lay on top the newly sewn pouch with your outer fabric UP. Then finally the outer larger piece face down on top. Pin.

4. Stitch around the edge leaving a 5cm turning gap along one of the straight edges, then trim the corners and curved edges with pinking shears

5. Turn outside out – use a really large knitting needle to help with the corners and press with an iron.
6. Ladder stitch the gap

7. Fold the top flap down and there’s only one step left, make a button hole! You can use the feature on the sewing machine or hand stitch whichever is easiest! I placed the button so when in use it was about 2cm up from the edge of the pouch as shown in the photos. It’s nice to have the flap completely down so that your cutlery can’t poke out when you’re on the go.

And there you have it! Please let us know how you got on with this project and if you share on social media tag us in with #bunyippotm so we can see them!

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10 Things I wish I Knew When I Started Sewing

I got my first sewing machine 13 years ago and, to be honest, I just muddled along. I had my fair share of ‘how on earth did I do that!?’ and ‘why can’t I do this!’ conversations with myself and learnt as I went. Recently I’ve tried more advanced sewing techniques and it got me thinking about what I would tell my 18 year old self to make her sewing going more smoothly. So here’s a mixture of tips and just things that are really useful to know.

10. Zips aren’t scary. Yes, even invisible zips. I used to get myself in such a tizz at the mere thought of inserting a zip. I remember very clearly pacing around the room before finally sitting down at my machine in some sort of terrified state. But now, a zip is one of the easiest parts of a project and no longer do my invisible zips look far less than invisible…

When it comes to invisible zips my ‘trick’ is definitely to use the correct foot. And to iron the zip first. More on this in another post.

9. This button is actually there for a reason… and it’s actually really useful! I’ve recently starting sewing with really thick fabrics and this magic button makes this easier. You press it before lowering your presser foot and it keeps it level. When this is no longer needed, the button pops out and you can sew normally. Now I bet you’re going to go and try that now aren’t you?

8. Your shop bought size is never your sewing pattern size. The first pattern I ever bought, I immediately made a size 8; that’s what I wore so what could go wrong? Well a lot of things actually but the main being it didn’t fit. Now I always check the measurements on the packet and compare them to my own. Even then it’s still not always right. So if I’m sewing with an expensive fabric, then I’ll make a mock up (or toille) of the item in a cheaper fabric so I can adjust it if need be.

7. Sometimes you’ll just wing it when a pattern doesn’t seem to make any sense. Some patterns, such as Tilly and the Buttons patterns, are great because they have step by step photographs to follow and lots of online support. Other patterns however…. I’ve recently used a pattern from one of the ‘Big 4’ (Butterick, McCalls, Simplicity and Vogue) and the instructions were AWFUL! I read, I reread, I asked other people to read it… but I was getting nowhere. In the end I just went with my gut and used my experience and it worked out ok. Now I couldn’t have done that when I started necessarily but I probably wouldn’t have had the confidence to even try.

6. There is a way to make your stitching straight. When I started sewing I would keep my eye on the needle and, inevitably, my stitching wouldn’t be straight. Instead, I use the guide lines on my sewing machine. Normally when making clothes I have a seam allowance of 5/8″ so I just line up my fabric with that line and voila, much more accurate sewing.

5. You don’t need to pull the fabric as you sew. When I started sewing I’d pull on the fabric as I was sewing because I thought I had to do this to pull it through. Not the case. Machines have ‘feed dogs’ which are the metal ridges you can see in the photo below. These move as you sew and grip the bottom fabric helping it to pass through smoothly. So by pulling my fabric, I was skipping stitches as the fabric was passing through too quickly.

4. Jersey isn’t that scary Now this is a relatively recent revelation for me. I’d put off using jersey until last year and I wish I’d started using it sooner. There’s no need for zips or buttons and it isn’t half as bad to use as people say. I found that using my walking foot really helped. The walking foot (see below) is designed to have an extra set of feed dogs for the top fabric. It basically keeps it all together! My other trick is to cut using a rotary cutter as it really reduces stretching when cutting.

3. Ironing is essential I hate (and hardy ever do) ironing when it comes to my already-made or shop bought items but it really is essential when sewing; particularly clothes. So why iron?

  • Ironing before cutting eliminates inaccuracies
  • It helps seams to sit flat and therefore look more polished.
  • You can manipulate fabrics, particularly wool, in to different shapes by stretching and shrinking it.
  • It just makes the finished item look better. Simple.

2. There is a hidden compartment in a lot of your sewing threads. Again, this is relatively new to me. It doesn’t really help with my sewing but it’s interesting. Most threads have a little bit at the bottom that detaches; this is mainly for keeping the thread secure. But if you remove it, you have a little compartment for needles for on the move sewing. Just seal up the hole with tack or something similar.

1. You will ALWAYS have to use a stitch unpicker. On every project. Embrace it.

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Project of the Month: How to make a Pencil Roll

This month to help get ready for the new school term we’ve done a how to make your own Pencil Roll! Could also be used for paint brushes or even make up brushes!

You will need:

Materials:
X2 Different fabrics 28cm x 39cm
60cm 15mm wide Satin Ribbon

Tools and Equipment:
Sewing Machine, Thread, Pins, Needle, Fabric Scissors, Ruler, Pen / Tailors Chalk,
Iron and Ironing board, Pinking Shears, a mug / something with a curve to draw round

Let’s get Making!

Decide which of your fabrics will be the inner and which will be the outer. For our roll the white animal fabric is the outer and the purple raindrops is the inner. From both of the fabrics cut the following: 28cm x 13cm. 28cm x 26cm (you’ll notice this fits into a fat quarter perfectly so you could actually make the roll out of just one fat quarter is you didn’t want the contrasting fabrics!
Next just with the larger piece of both fabrics grab your mug and butter it up to the top corners, draw around and then cut to give you a nice smooth curve!

Little Hack
Fabric cut out and ready to go!

Take the two smaller pieces right sides together and stitch along the top (1cm seam allowance for this project) Open out and press and then fold so that wrong sides are facing and press the seam down. This will make up the front pockets.

Pocket piece pressed

Take your pocket piece and lay it on top of the larger inner piece of fabric so that bottom corners and lined up. Now grab your pins and a rular, you can use the pins to mark out where you will be stitching to make the multiple pouches or a washable pen / tailors chalk if you prefer. Mark out the pins 3.5cm apart from each – APART from the ones on the other edge, they will need to be 4.5 cm from the edge to allow for seam allowance for when assembling. This perfectly fit 3 pencils per pouch, feel free to change it round to be either smaller or larger depends how many you’d like to fit if each section!

Align your pins for where / how big you’d like your pockets to be

Stitch straight lines down attaching the pouch to the inner piece of fabric. Snip off the loose threads and grab out remaining outer piece of fabric face down (so right sides together) sandwich together and pin around the edge

Sandwich together your pieces, right sides facing

Leave a gap of roughly 7cm along the edge (in between the curves) and sitch around the edge. Snip off the corners, turn and press flat.
Ladder Stitch the top opening.

Place your roll in front of you with so that you’re looking at the back of it. Measure 10cm across from the left hand side and 10cm up from the bottom and pin the centre point of your ribbon to this spot. Stitch the ribbon to the roll but be sure not to stitch all the way through tacking down one of the pouches. I find tucking my finger in one of the pouched so I can feel when the needle is through the fabric and stop it going through the pouches. This should also line up so that this little line of stitching doesn’t show when you turn the roll over as it’s inside on the little pockets.

And Voila! Your roll is complete! Please let us know how you got on with this project and if you share on social media tag us in with #bunyippotm so we can see them!

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Top 10… Haberdashery Items

Haberdashery

I sew so I use a lot of different haberdashery on a regular basis (that and I work in a haberdashery of course). Mattie asked me a while ago if I could do a blog post about my top ten items and it got me thinking… What makes something one of my favourites? It’s not like fabric where I look at it and my heart beats that bit faster; these are practical items. But a blog post about sewing thread and needles wasn’t going to cut it. So in the last couple of months I’ve been paying close attention to what I use, how I use it and how it improves whatever project I’m working on. The result is this, my top 10 haberdashery items.

10. Bias Binding

The binding in the photo is beautiful, pretty bias binding that would have to be on show. I have done this recently on outfits when I want to make a bit of a statement and it’s so easy. But I’ve also started doing hidden bias binding finishes on necklines and arm-holes. Still super easy but also makes my clothes look nice and professional.

9. A Variety of Sewing Needles 

I know I said that I wasn’t about to write a post on needles but I did have to include some in the round up. In my sewing kit I have a variety of different needles for different jobs including general sewing, embroidery, beading or darning. When I first started I never would have thought that there were so many out there, but the right needle does make the job a lot easier!

8. Buttonhole Thread

I recently found the joy of hand sewing a buttonhole. So therapeutic and much less temperamental than doing it on my machine. A good strong thread in a variety of colours is definitely a part of my sewing box.

7. Buttons

It surprised me that buttons didn’t come a bit higher in my list (I am the girl who has buttons in her tattoo!) but they are definitely still there. Buttons can really make a garment and at the moment my particular favourites are these coconut buttons in yellow. Just scrummy!

6. Self Cover Buttons

Self cover buttons are great because you can choose the colour to match whatever you’re making. It can be a complete contrast, a perfect match, patterned or plain. You will definitely find something that works.

5. Pin Cushion

I love the ease of a pin cushion. No boxes or envelopes to open, just stab the needle in and voila, tidy. I’ve managed to master the skill of removing pins and continuing to sew on my machine so a pin cushion is a must for quick, blind tidying. 

4. Interfacing

When I first started writing this, my immediate thought was that this would be number 10. But after thinking about it, I actually use interfacing a lot. I like to make purses and bags so this gives me the structure and stiffness that I need. It’s also useful on collars to keep them looking pristine. 

3. Sharp Snipping Scissors

I have a lot of scissors in my craft room… I mean a lot. I obviously use my fabric scissors all of the time but I do love a nice, sharp pair of little scissors for snipping threads at the end of a project. The ‘sharp’ aspect is the most important bit here; no struggling and faffing involved.

2. Seam Ripper

It had to be here didn’t it. Barely a project goes by without me having to use a seam ripper. I have about 5… just in case.

 

And at number 1….

Chalk Pens

I often make my own designs so these pens are perfect for creating thin, precise lines on my fabric. They’re also perfect for transferring markings from a commercial pattern. The best bit, they wash out so no unsightly marks on my finished make. 

So there’s my top 10, what would be in yours?

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Project of the Month: Cross stitch Needle Case

We have a lovely new member of staff, Alice who is an amazing sewer and makes the cutest things. She’s going to be making different projects using fat quarters and this month she’s made this adorable needle book. Here’s how to make your own. 

qrf

You will need:

Your favourite cross stitch design, Aida Fabric, Embroidery thread, 
Fabric & Felt in 2 Contrasting Colours

Tools and Equipment:

Sewing Machine, Thread, Fabric Scissors, Ruler, Pen / Tailors Chalk,
Iron and Ironing board, Pinking Shears.

Let’s get making…

1. I’ve used a design from Hygge, issue 162 of the Rico Embroidery Series of Books, which are fabulous (come and see them in the shop). The size of the design you choose will define the size of your needle case. The design I went for ended up with a final size of 3.5cm by 6.5cm, which is pretty small so I wouldn’t recommend going any smaller than this but you can go bigger!

2. Sew your lovely design and then draw a rectangle / square around it with a 2cm border. 1cm of this will be the seam allowance (which will continue through all of this project) then the remaining 1cm will act as a border around your design. Cut.

Using your fabric, cut out the same size piece as you’ve just cut, then place on top of each other front sides facing, and pin.

3. With your aida fabric on top, stitch down the right hand side using the holes / lines in the aida fabric to keep your stitching straight.
Open out the seam and press with an iron.

4. Now cut out from your remaining fabric a matching rectangle (double the size of your first piece of fabric), place on top of sewn pieces, front sides together and pin.
Stitch along 3 sides of your fabric. Top, Right and Bottom, leaving a hole in the whole of the left hand side.

5. Snip the corners, turn and press. Next turn in the whole rough edge 1cm, press with an iron and then stitch as close to the edge either by hand or machine.

6. Prep your felt. You want one piece of felt 1/2cm smaller than your aida size, and another 1cm smaller. For example my finished stitching leaves a rectangle of 10cm x 8cm. I’ve cut one rectangle 9cm x 7cm and another 8cm x 6cm.

7. Layer up your felt going in order: Smallest piece of felt on top, then the larger piece of felt, then the rectangle of fabric on the bottom with the section of cross stitch on the outside.

8. Pin in place and flip the whole thing over so you are now looking at your cross stitch design and the other half of fabric. Stitch down the join between your aida and fabric so that the stitches are relatively hidden from the outside.

And you’re done! You should have a little book like needle case with multiple pages to keep you pins and needles nice and safe!

9. Share your amazing needle book on our social media page!